Clay County 4x4 Club: u-joint - Clay County 4x4 Club

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u-joint

#1 User is offline   mwalt177 

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Posted 29 July 2010 - 06:21 PM

there should be no play at all in my u-joint??? have a little side to side play on one in the rear.
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#2 User is offline   bigpaul 

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Posted 29 July 2010 - 07:23 PM

replace it asap
BIGPAULaka(p-88blazer)(2006 2500 hd 4x4)(86 cherokee 4x4 soon to be on ton's)
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#3 User is offline   exocaged 

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Posted 29 July 2010 - 07:55 PM

Yep change it before it costs you big $$$ in other things that could be tore up. If you can buy a quality joint. I recommend the spicer life.
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#4 User is offline   mwalt177 

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Posted 29 July 2010 - 08:25 PM

ok, so thats my vibration I guess. Its the factory u-joint with 76000 miles on it so its been good.
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#5 User is offline   lordbiotree 

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Posted 29 July 2010 - 09:35 PM

go to a drive line shop and get a spicer non grease-able one.
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#6 User is offline   mwalt177 

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Posted 29 July 2010 - 09:44 PM

View Postlordbiotree, on 29 July 2010 - 09:35 PM, said:

go to a drive line shop and get a spicer non grease-able one.



why a non-grease-able?
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#7 User is offline   lordbiotree 

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Posted 29 July 2010 - 10:00 PM

stronger and better. The cross pin is solid instead of being hollow.
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#8 User is offline   mwalt177 

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Posted 29 July 2010 - 10:06 PM

ok cool. thanks for the info
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#9 User is offline   Lil Ugly 

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Posted 30 July 2010 - 07:56 AM

For a DD that sees occasional offroad use with only a mild build, I would go with a quality greasable style. More ujoints fail from the needle bearings not having enough lubricant than any other reason. For a trail only rig non greasable is the way to go for the reasons stated earlier.
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#10 User is offline   exocaged 

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Posted 30 July 2010 - 08:33 AM

Yeah dryness will kill a joint. The issue I had with greasable is most of them don't seal very well and I would not grease very much, combine that with mud and I was changing them every few months. Granted it was the advance cheapies. I think they were 8 bucks or something back in the day. The only issue with the spicer life joints is that I crushed the needle bearings in the front shaft. They had grease in them too. Overall they are the best joints I have found to date for driveshaft use.
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#11 User is offline   mwalt177 

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Posted 30 July 2010 - 05:30 PM

View PostLil Ugly, on 30 July 2010 - 07:56 AM, said:

For a DD that sees occasional offroad use with only a mild build, I would go with a quality greasable style. More ujoints fail from the needle bearings not having enough lubricant than any other reason. For a trail only rig non greasable is the way to go for the reasons stated earlier.



thats sounds about like my rig. I think thats the way I will go
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#12 User is offline   K5sRule 

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Posted 30 July 2010 - 05:36 PM

Factory joints are non greasable most of the time, I use spicer non greasables on everything... except the golf cart. Or ask yourself haw many times did you grease your previous u-joint? Or do you actually plan on doing it?
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#13 User is offline   mwalt177 

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Posted 30 July 2010 - 06:13 PM

View PostK5sRule, on 30 July 2010 - 05:36 PM, said:

Factory joints are non greasable most of the time, I use spicer non greasables on everything... except the golf cart. Or ask yourself haw many times did you grease your previous u-joint? Or do you actually plan on doing it?



I grease them everytime I change my oil. But the one that has failed is the factory non-geasable. Plus I just got some napa cheap Os joints for now. I may be going with a cv rear soon.
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#14 User is offline   mwalt177 

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Posted 01 August 2010 - 10:20 AM

It was not the U-joint!!! The bolts holding the little U shaped clip back out a little bit. All good now!!
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#15 User is offline   ian99zr2 

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Posted 02 August 2010 - 12:00 AM

loc-tite!!
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