Clay County 4x4 Club: Lil Ugly gets links and 1 tons - Clay County 4x4 Club

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Lil Ugly gets links and 1 tons

#1 User is offline   Lil Ugly 

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Posted 20 December 2009 - 05:03 PM

Ok I have made mention several times that my rig was getting linked and 1tons. I have actually started the project and am a little behind with getting it posted here.

I started with the following stats:

Wheel Base: 93"
CG: 36"
WMS: 54"
Belly Height: 17.5"
Wheels: 36" Iroks on Aluminum

I should end up with the following:

Wheel Base: 103"
CG: 40"
WMS: 69"
Belly Height: 20"
Wheels: Allied beadlock with 39.5 Iroks

My rear 4 link numbers should be around: 99% Anti-squat 27" Roll Center Height, and 5 degree roll oversteer.
My front 3 link numbers should be around: 98.6% Anti-squat 22.3" Roll Center Height, and 5 degree roll oversteer.

At this point I have the new NP435, 203/205 rebuilt and installed with cross member etc. Shifters have been built and installed. The rear 4 link is about half way done. There are some pics of the front axle where I had to remove part of the old spring perch to make room for the link mounts. There is also a photo of the steering link mod that was on the axle when I bought it. I was able to remove this with a 3 lb sledge and a couple of good hits. "SCARY".

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#2 User is offline   twisted4x4 

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Posted 20 December 2009 - 06:28 PM

bigg difference looking really good
00 tacoma,3"lift,33" all terrians
94 ford f-150,18" lift,sfa 44,gutted bed,38" super scoop paddles,
400 hp small block ford,c6 full manual v-body,4:11 gears
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#3 User is offline   truss 

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Posted 20 December 2009 - 07:26 PM

looks good man. are you going to be putting any of your old parts up for sale?
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#4 User is offline   JRW1 

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Posted 21 December 2009 - 12:15 AM

was there penetration on the welds on the knuckle or did it just rip the whole bead and base metal off when you smacked it off?.......it looks tight but i'm sure the pic is deceiving with the clearance between the gas tank protection thing and the diff housing.....
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#5 User is offline   Lil Ugly 

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Posted 21 December 2009 - 09:58 AM

View PostJRW1, on Dec 21 2009, 12:15 AM, said:

was there penetration on the welds on the knuckle or did it just rip the whole bead and base metal off when you smacked it off?.......it looks tight but i'm sure the pic is deceiving with the clearance between the gas tank protection thing and the diff housing.....


It just ripped everything off. Very little penetration of the base metal. There is about a half inch between the tank and diff. All that you need is for it not to hit. I actually have more room than I started with as I originally used a diff cover that was larger.

My old parts will be coming up for sale. I will post up in the for sale section soon. Lockers, axles, upgraded steering, wheels, tires. It all has to go.
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#6 User is offline   Lil Ugly 

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Posted 02 January 2010 - 09:39 AM

Managed to get some work done the last two weekends. Shock towers are built, rear is final welded, lots to still do but I can now start on the front. The new rear axle placement required the relocation of the rear crossmember and modifications to the genright tank skid. Nothing like spending money on parts so you can cut them up to do something different. :banghead:
Attached File  Shock_Tower_002.jpg (60.9K)
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#7 User is online   exocaged 

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Posted 02 January 2010 - 10:20 AM

lookin good man!
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#8 User is offline   Lil Ugly 

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Posted 21 January 2010 - 11:44 AM

Started putting in the front axle two weeks ago and ran into some unanticipated issues at full stuff. The third link mount was hitting the radiator hose and fittings at the radiator, the engine mounts were in the way of both the third link and the front driveshaft, the fuel pump was in the way of the third link and the brake lines were all danger close to bolts etc. So..... I raised the radiator two inches, built a shroud/electric fan mount, changed to an electric fuel pump, moved the brake lines, and made new motor mounts.

Attached File  Motor_Mount_003.jpg (39.53K)
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Attached File  Motor_Mount_004.jpg (43.34K)
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Hopefully by the end of the weekend I can get some pics with the links and everything all in place. Should all fit together like a puzzle when done. Of course I wonder what I missed or forgot about?
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#9 User is offline   JRW1 

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Posted 21 January 2010 - 05:21 PM

are you going to make that crossmember removable from the motor mounts?
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#10 User is online   exocaged 

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Posted 21 January 2010 - 07:51 PM

View PostJRW1, on Jan 21 2010, 04:21 PM, said:

are you going to make that crossmember removable from the motor mounts?



I hope not. I would rather see him weld that up solid then put it on pivits and let the leverage from the mounts rip a hole in the block.
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#11 User is online   withinfocus 

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Posted 22 January 2010 - 08:33 AM

Sounds like the same bunch of problems I had too. Ended up shifting the engine over 3", making new motor mounts, trimming the front grille, tubing the front frame, buying a new radiator with fan / shroud, and getting a two-piece driveshaft. It sucks but at least it will perform well now.
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#12 User is offline   Lil Ugly 

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Posted 22 January 2010 - 10:23 AM

View Postwithinfocus, on Jan 22 2010, 08:33 AM, said:

Sounds like the same bunch of problems I had too. Ended up shifting the engine over 3", making new motor mounts, trimming the front grille, tubing the front frame, buying a new radiator with fan / shroud, and getting a two-piece driveshaft. It sucks but at least it will perform well now.


It always seems to be something. Lends some light on Austins thought process.
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#13 User is offline   Lil Ugly 

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Posted 22 January 2010 - 10:26 AM

View Postexocaged, on Jan 21 2010, 07:51 PM, said:

I hope not. I would rather see him weld that up solid then put it on pivits and let the leverage from the mounts rip a hole in the block.


The cross member portion will be welded to the motor mounts on either side of the motor creating a cradle. The cradle is attached to the frame by bushings.

Why would that introduce force into the motor causing the block to break? IF anything it transfers load across the crossmember into the other frame rail and reduces the forces on the motor. :icon_sport67:
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Posted 22 January 2010 - 01:02 PM

what I ment was if you did not do a crossbrace like what you posted. That would create a ripping effect on the engine block. Your design is perfect IMO
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#15 User is offline   JRW1 

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Posted 22 January 2010 - 06:20 PM

is there enough clearance to drop the pan without having to unbolt the motor mounts?
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#16 User is offline   Lil Ugly 

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Posted 22 January 2010 - 10:37 PM

View PostJRW1, on Jan 22 2010, 07:20 PM, said:

is there enough clearance to drop the pan without having to unbolt the motor mounts?


No, I thought about it but chose clearance from obstacles over being able to remove the pan with it in place. If I need to I will support the motor with the cherry picker.


Quote

what I ment was if you did not do a crossbrace like what you posted. That would create a ripping effect on the engine block. Your design is perfect IMO


My bad, I mis-read your post.
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#17 User is offline   JRW1 

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Posted 23 January 2010 - 08:38 AM

View PostLil Ugly, on Jan 22 2010, 09:37 PM, said:

If I need to I will support the motor with the cherry picker.

unless you bust a hole in the pan on the trail and need to get the pan off.......
i would add pipe flanges or those crazy tubing clamp thingyies. just my two cents
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Posted 23 January 2010 - 07:23 PM

how often do oil pans get torn up on the trail?
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#19 User is offline   K5sRule 

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Posted 23 January 2010 - 11:01 PM

Didn't you have to drop yours on the trail?
Starve the shredder feed the hobby.
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#20 User is offline   JRW1 

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Posted 23 January 2010 - 11:50 PM

it would only take one time and you would be wishing you had taken a little more time to fab a couple flanges..........but thats just me. i'm not knockin' anything about the build, just asking questions.
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